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Moldova Lei
Moldova uses the Modovan leu as its national currency. Each leu is then further divided into 100 bani. The plural of leu is lei and the bani is a plural term, with the singular being ban.
Issued by the National Bank of Moldova, the currency comes in the form of notes and coins, with coins issued as 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 bani and notes in the form of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1,000 lei.
Internationally the currency is recognised by the letters MDL.
One interesting aspect to currency in Moldova, is that Transnistria, which is a 'breakaway' Republic of Moldovia, actually uses the Transnistrian ruble, which is an unofficial currency, since the whole Republic is not officially recognised, so in effect there are two currencies in use in Moldova, but only one official, national currency. Although if you plan to visit Transnistria, then you should be aware of the fact that you will need to use the Transnistrian ruble in this part of the country.
History of the Moldovan Lei
The leu was the official currency of Moldova between the years 1918 – 1940 and once again between 1941 and 1944, but at this point, it was actually a Romanian leu that was in circulation, when indeed, Moldova was actually part and parcel of Rumania.
The Moldovan leu came into circulation in 1993, following the independent Republic of Moldova being set up in 1991, which was a result of the Soviet Union breaking up.
Getting Hold of Lei
Getting hold of Lei in Moldova is not actually that hard. There are a number of ATM facilities, but not throughout the country, mainly in the capital Chisinau, so you can easily get hold of cash this way. But for the country districts and other towns you can more or less forget being able to access an ATM. Even if you do find an ATM you will find that they don't accept your chip and PIN number, so it is best just to assume that you won't be able to use ATMs outside of the capital.
Credit and debit cards are increasingly becoming more accepted in Moldova, but due to security issues (see safety section) there use is not recommended.
One of the best ways to access cash in Moldova is through taking in cash and then exchanging it as required. It is possible to take in traveller's cheques, but you may well find that only a few banks will exchange these, but if you ask at your hotel where the best bank is, then they will probably be able to give you its name and direction as to how to get there.
The economy in Moldova is basically a cash economy. People find it easier to deal in hard cash and so you should adopt this way of thinking before you visit, just to ensure that you get the hang of how the country operates and start letting go of any dependence you may have on cards!
Safety Issues
Moldova is not a very unsafe country to visit and indeed, it is not regarded as somewhere that there is a very high risk of terrorism. That being said, there is a very real risk of having your credit or debit card 'skimmed' if you use an ATM machine. So you need to exercise extreme caution when using an ATM machine and make sure that there is nothing suspect about it. If there is then do not use, it no matter how desperate you are for cash.
Crime is not particularly an issue in Moldova as a whole, but within the capital Chisinau, there are some issues relating to crime, although these are mainly linked to petty crimes, such as bag snatching and pick pocketing. That being said, there are some suggestions that many of the petty criminals have at least some links to organised crime and organised crime tends to be a problem in the country as a whole, although, due to the fact that it is very obviously 'hidden' and secretive, no one quite knows the extent of organised crime.
Transnistria is something of another story. This 'independent state' is located just to the north east of Moldova and the state as a whole is not 'under' any official government, which makes it unstable. There is also the possibility of violence erupting, particularly with neighbouring Moldova. In addition, since there is no 'recognised' government, there is no Embassies or consular activities, so if anything does go wrong in Transnistria, you can find yourself pretty much on your own. Generally it is not an unsafe place to visit, but if there is a problem, you really won't be able to access any help or assistance. So it is worth considering this, before finalising any travel arrangements. It is also best to visit Moldova and then go to Transnistria on the way out, because if you visit Transnistria first, you may find that it is hassle getting into Moldova.
If you are single and male and of marriageable age, travelling to Moldova, then be aware of any women who pay you an inordinate amount of interest. There have been occasions where single men have been targeted by organised criminal gangs, who arrange for women to become 'engaged' to a single Western male and then try to extort money out of them, often by hard luck stories and sometimes over a period of time. So whilst not discounting any female interest that is shown in you, it is worth simply being cautious and if the woman does ask for money, then it is always best to refuse: love will win out, so in some ways it can be a true indication of whether or not it is a scam or a genuine case of love.
There is also a problem with corruption in Moldova. This is widespread and you may even find that the police or customs official ask for a bribe. The official advice is to ignore this and immediately ask to see someone from the Embassy of your country of residence. The reality is that most people ignore the official advice….but its up to you and the circumstances in which you find yourself.
Spending Lei
Moldova is a country that is relatively good value: whist some may describe it as cheap, this somehow seems to negate the worth of what you will find here. But be aware it is not a rich country, being the most underdeveloped country in the whole of Europe. It has also experienced real problems as a result of the rising costs of fuel and energy. Moldova is dependent on Russia for supplying its gas and on the Ukraine and Romania for importing electricity: so it is very much dependent on other countries and when they put up the prices: Moldova suffers.
The effect of this is that there are often fuel crises and there are times when the country simply cannot afford to light the streets at night. So be sensitive to the ongoing poverty that has, to some extent, worn down the population.
The cost of eating out is fairly low, although this has increasingly crept upwards over the last few years, due to the problem with fuel costs. Most people who work outside of the cities are involved with farming of some kind, so there are a good variety of vegetables, agricultural products and meat available which keeps the cost of food down. The only problem can be getting the food cooked, which is becoming more and more expensive, as well as the heating and lighting costs associated with running hotels and restaurants.
Shopping is also very good value and you can pick up some real bargains in Moldova, simply because the cost of items is comparatively so little. Wine is exceptionally good value for money and some of the most fantastic wine can be had for only a couple of euros a bottle1
Chocolates can also be a real treat in Moldova, although if you are travelling on to another country, you are better off eating them, since by the time you get back home they may be withered from not being kept in ideal conditions, or worse still, all squashed. Anyway, it's a good excuse for eating chocolates….
What to see in Moldova
Moldova does not enjoy a reputation as being one of the countries that you absolutely must see before you die. But it does have a lot to offer travellers. In part that is because it is undeveloped and it is not a country that is rich, but it is poor and there are not a huge numbers of travellers who go there every year.
But is has some wonderful archaeological remains out at Old Orhei, which is the remains of a city that was once one of the biggest in Europe. It has a monastery which is in the form of caves, as well as an ancient fortress and is quite spectacular.
In addition, the capital is a very imposing place to visit, since it is a city that has been around, in one form or another since the year 1436. The old city is the part that most travellers like to see and it is indeed impressive, with lots of houses from previous ages, as well as some architecturally interesting older houses. You will also find some wonderful theatres and museums in this section of Chisinau and it is a wonderfully 'cultured' place, despite the fact that often the street lights are not fully functioning.
Overview
Moldova somehow is very much alone, clinging to the eastern side of Europe as if it is not sure of its identity. The people seem to have been worn down by years and years of Soviet oppression and now they can often (but not always) seem quite cynical about life, politics and what is happening in the country. Yet they do not rebel, they do not have a tendency to stand up for their rights, it feels like they just nod their heads, shrug their shoulders and get on with trying to make a living, in what are often very difficult circumstances.
But this brings with it a certain charm. If you want a sanitised version of Europe with twee cakes and coffee and an affluent way of life, then Moldova will disappoint: if you want adventure on the tip of the eastern side of Moldova and want to experience different ways of life and being, then get over to Moldova now.
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